Indian chef Sanjeev Kapoor brings diversity to in-flight meals on SIA journeys to Indian destination

“The dishes are taken into a simulated pressurised cabin, and hours are spent sampling and adjusting the flavours, so the food can taste its best at 35,000 feet,” said 60-year-old Kapoor, who is a member of SIA’s International Culinary Panel, a talented pool that comprises five globally acclaimed chefs. The others are Georges Blanc (France), Matt Moran (Australia), Yoshihiro Murata (Japan) and Zhu Jun (China).

“The menu has to pass the taste test,” said Kapoor, who has been tasked with providing a wholesome meal with a comforting Indian touch.

For passengers travelling in First Class or Business Class, they get to taste Kapoor’s signature Shahi Thali and Ruchi Thali, respectively.

Available in vegetarian and non-vegetarian options, each thali is a culinary journey from India’s north to south, presenting regional flavours in their truest form.

Kapoor told Singapore weekly tabloid tabla! on Friday that his approach to curating SIA’s in-flight meals involves meticulous attention to detail.

“The philosophy centres on dishes that transmit freshness. Over time, we have understood what works and what doesn’t. For instance, slow-cooked dishes with flavours that are not understated work well,” he said.

The celebrity chef also emphasised the challenges of serving meals at high altitudes.

“The air is drier in the cabin, and you need water for dispersion of flavour. You even salivate less on a flight. So, we have to compensate for the lack of water. Also, the food is cooked in the kitchen and chilled – to be reheated on the flight. So, it can never be overcooked in the kitchen.

“Gravies are good as they inherently have moisture that prevents the food from drying up. Indian food is lucky that way. Food items that change form with freezing and reheating, or those that need very high temperatures to reheat, cannot be used,” Kapoor explained.

Most ingredients tend to become dry, rubbery, limp or change colour when they are reheated. For instance, leafy greens like spinach won’t retain their bright green colour, prawns might get chewy and deep-fried food like potato chips will not remain crisp, he said.

“So, the food will have to be seasoned more than usual in order to heighten flavours and aromas, which will compensate for the 30 per cent reduction in taste sensations… But you also need to take into account that you are serving different kinds of flavours in an enclosed space. This means you would not, ideally, want the cabin to overwhelmingly smell of any particular food item,” Kapoor said.

Kapoor, the only Indian chef with his own TV channel, FoodFood, considers factors such as flight routes and timings when designing menus.

“Singapore Airlines conducted research some years ago in the Indian cities to which it operates to find out what fliers prefer to eat. We learnt that when people are going away from their homes – on a holiday or business trip – they prefer more elaborate meals that are reminiscent of restaurant food. However, when they are returning home, they prefer home-style cooking,” he said.

This insight inspired the creation of the Shahi Thali for First Class passengers on Indian routes. Typical items include coconut-ginger pancake with lemongrass-infused prawn, mango chaat with coriander chutney, murgh tulsi malai, til wala pulao, Rajasthani lamb, spinach with fenugreek, black pepper lentil soup, kachumber salad, yogurt, and white pumpkin rice pudding.

Kapoor also relies on passenger feedback and booking preferences to tailor meals.

“Passengers, especially on long-haul flights, often fill in their dietary preferences while booking their flights. This makes it easier for me to decide on the dishes we plan to serve on a specific flight. Flight routes and timings also decide what meal – breakfast, lunch, dinner or snack – is served. Our menu is also selected to meet the needs of passengers who may be travelling through multiple time zones,” he said.

The chef acknowledged the logistical challenges of serving Indian cuisine on flights.

“For airlines, weight is everything. We even had to do research on the clay pot in which the curd is served so that it does not add significantly to the total weight of the dish.

“Crockery has to look good but it cannot weigh a lot. There is also very little space for the crew to stand and do their duties. So, if there are many steps involved in serving, it will be frustrating for them, and the flyers will get impatient as it will take more time,” he explained.

Catering and cabin crew are trained in presentation, using photographs of each dish to ensure consistency.

Indian cuisine is available across Business, First, and Economy classes on SIA flights.

Kapoor was recently in Singapore as the brand ambassador for The Akshaya Patra Foundation, a Bengaluru-based non-profit working to eliminate classroom hunger by providing nutritious meals to children in government schools. PTI GS SCY